One of the more intriguing items at the market recently has been garlic scapes. I’d never seen them for sale around here before, but evidently they are fast becoming a favored ingredient for those who like their delicate garlic flavor, which is milder and “greener” than a garlic clove.

If you’re not familiar with garlic scapes, here’s a quick explanation: a scape is the green part that rises above the soil from a root or bulb (amaryllis stalks do a similar climb). As they grow upward, garlic scapes begin to curl in elegant configurations.

They’re only available for a short time, as they must be cut while they are still tender. I was really quite struck with their wild beauty and seductive loops. To me, they look like regal neckwear for faeries. I tried to take a picture to show you what I had in mind:

There’s something glorious and slightly sinister about the spirals, don’t you think? Okay, so maybe I’ve read too many stories about evil forests with diabolical plants. Anyhow…

Since garlic scapes have a tenderness not unlike a green onion, they can be used similarly, such as paired with leeks in a vichyssoise, lightly sauteed and topped on another dish, or made into a mild pesto. I wanted to get the full effect of their flavor, so I just sauteed them lightly and topped them on some fried tofu with black bean sauce. They were very tasty, with a surprisingly peppery edge (but not downright hot or as strong as bulb garlic). I’ll try to post a photo of that later tonight. No recipe for sautéing the scapes is needed; just pour a little bit of olive oil in a pan, heat, and toss them until just slightly golden. You can eat them raw, if you’re a real garlic lover, or mix them with other dishes as a side or enhancement. Either way, if you can get them, garlic scapes are not to be missed! Also if you are sensitive to “garlic breath”, eating garlic scapes might be a good option, as they are less powerful-tasting than a regular clove. I know I’ll be sure to look for them from now on…using the whole plant appeals to my reluctance to throw food away, and the idea of a new way to get the taste of garlic is definitely welcome in my house…whether it gives me diabolical breath or not.

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This is without a doubt my favorite tomato salad…something about the combination of lemon and cumin with the sweet tomatoes just makes me go insane with delight. I first tasted it from a friend and former roommate who made this often for our dinner parties (let me tell you how lucky it was to have a roommate who was not only a great cook but whose tastes in food were very compatible with my own).

What about this salad is Moroccan? I don’t think this dish is especially traditional to Moroccan cooking, but the original recipe called for harissa - a spicy, garlicky paste common to North African cooking. If you happen to have harissa on hand, you can use a few tablespoons of it in place of the garlic, cumin, and crushed red pepper. Otherwise, this version is pretty much identical in flavor and also faster if you aren’t up for making a batch of harissa (I personally need to psych myself up a bit before seeding all those red peppers that are required).

I make this tomato salad very frequently in the summer, and it doesn’t last more than a day or two as I can hardly stop myself from wolfing it down and drinking the spicy liquid that remains. It’s also a nice way to get some tomato action in non-summery months when the supermarket specimens are less than inviting. A package of grape tomatoes are usually sweet enough even when not in season, and the dressing is zippy enough to disguise the mediocre and enhance those in their prime (i’ll let you choose your own metaphor there ;). The salad is a perfect complement to grilled meats such as lamb or with rice and other grain dishes (like the Uppama from last week - I ate a whole batch that night and made another for this week). Quantities are approximate, so feel free to use less or more of an ingredient if you are sensitive (I like lots of cayenne, but some may not like it so spicy-hot).

Moroccan Tomato Salad

1 pint package of red grape or small cherry tomatoes, halved
1 garlic clove, minced
3 tablespoons onion, minced
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon whole cumin seed
1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or more to taste
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper, or to taste
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
salt

Roast the cumin seeds in a dry skillet until fragrant, about 1-2 minutes. Grind in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle.
Toss cumin and all other ingredients except cilantro together and taste for balance of flavors. Add more salt, pepper, or cayenne as needed. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve. This salad is good either cold or room temperature. If you have time, let it sit for a while to develop a bit and it will be even better.

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