For me, one of the most exciting aspects of last weekend’s little break was visiting the Ironbound district in Newark, where there is a small Portuguese neighborhood, complete with grocers, restaurants, cafés, and shops. There were Brazilian juice stands, churrascarias selling chicken with piri-piri, language centers galore, and even a dentist’s office with its sign in Portuguese. It was here that I could finally sample authentic versions of some of the Portuguese pastries that I’ve been trying to create in my kitchen. Outside of the Massachusetts area, I think the Ironbound comprises the largest Portuguese community in the US.
“Coutinhos Bakery - The Difference is the Taste”
We first went to two bakeries, Coutinho’s and Teixeiras, both known for specializing in the traditional pastries. My Portuguese ambassador tells me that Coutinho’s is exactly like a Portuguese café transplanted to the USA, down to the type of chairs and little cups of espresso that were imported so immigrants could feel at home. Everyone there was speaking Portuguese, from the old-timers who were clearly regulars to small children brought in by their parents. The place is so keen on providing a nostalgic experience for their patrons, they even sell Portuguese water!
Only authentic Portuguese can drink this water
Our main mission was to find pastéis de nata, which are probably the best-known Portuguese pastry and notable for their rustic, slightly burnt tops. While the natas at both bakeries were very fresh, we found Teixeira’s to be a little too thick tasting and floury on the inside. The ones are Coutinho’s were pronounced “just right” by the Mad Scientist, who chatted happily with the women at the counter, eager to ensure that I had a proper nata experience. The little tartlets are made of a multilayered, crisp dough and filled with an eggy, rich custard that bears the tiniest hint of lemon. It’s common to sprinkle cinnamon on top, but we had them plain. The ideal way to eat them is with a nice cup of espresso, which cuts the sweetness a little and allows you to consume several in one sitting.
We also tried almond tarts and a queijadas de feijao - a sweet bean one. I forgot to ask for queijadas de Sintra, the ones filled with cheese, which are almost as good as pastéis de nata. I was lucky to try them once from my friend João, who brought me a package from the original bakery in his hometown. Right now, though, I am longing for more of the natas…my only regret is not buying more of them to take home with me.
In addition to the bakeries, we wanted to find a Portuguese restaurant for lunch. This was more difficult than expected, since surprisingly few of the eateries seemed to have what we were looking for. There was not much variety in bacalhau (salt cod) dishes on the menus, which is particularly unusual since the Portuguese are said to have a bacalhau recipe for every day of the year. (They really do - I’ve seen the cookbooks). Some also seemed aimed towards tourists who may not know what to order. We finally settled on Seabra’s Marisqueira, which I think was a good choice (although I don’t have much basis for comparison). We ordered some chouriço sausage - which is rather different and not to be confused with the Spanish chorizo, a very rich dish made with bacalhau and potatoes, and a very homey and filling plate of pork with clams. I can see that the Portuguese love comfort food, and may try my hand at some of the pork and salt cod dishes when the weather cools down. I like their liberal use of cilantro, one of my favorite herbs, which adds a surprising and bright note to the stewed meats.
The best thing about this little neighborhood is that it’s only steps from the Newark train station - so it’d be a shame not to stop by and fill up on terrific pastries and espresso when in the vicinity.
Coutinhos Bakery
121 Ferry St, Newark - (973) 344-7384
Seabra Marisqueira
87 Madison St, Newark - (973) 465-1250