I’ve been working on trying to perfect a low-fat orange nutmeg muffin recipe; my hopes are that it will be something like a muffin version of my favorite Orange Almond Nutmeg biscotti from Enrico. I also want something to bring in to work in the mornings that hasn’t got loads butter or oil, so I can have an easier time pretending that I’m starting the day off on a healthy note. It’s surprisingly difficult to get the proper amount of fluffiness and flavor, especially because I’m not using moisteners typical of low-fat baking like bananas, applesauce, or prune butter. This batch from last night came close with a hefty helping of yogurt in the mix, but that distinctive yogurty tang seemed to intrude on my enjoyment of the nutmeg. So it’s back to the drawing board, although I think I may be pretty close to a solution…
Meanwhile, as a consolation prize I made one of my favorite cookie recipes, which came from a Maida Heatter cookbook by way of Craig Claiborne, the former food editor of the New York Times. Maida Heatter is such a beloved figure in the American dessert scene, I feel a bit guilty that I hadn’t heard of her until only a couple of years ago. However, it’s been a joy to catch up on her vast repertoire of cookies, bars, cakes, and other pastries. In her books, Maida’s voice is enthusiastic, bubbling with energy, and with descriptions of each recipe that sound so superior, it’s hard to decide which one to make first.
These cardamom cookies seem rather simple; so much that one might be tempted to overlook them in favor of something more elaborate and eye-catching. I can assure you, however, that they are one of those superb examples of simplicity at its best. The taste of cardamom combined with a butter cookie/shortbread-like dough is versatile enough for any occasion - last year I included them in gift boxes of holiday cookies. Using freshly ground cardamom is the key to their outstanding flavor, though; while the pre-ground stuff will do if that’s all you can find, if you can manage to toss some whole seeds in a spice grinder, the difference will be marvelous (plus, your kitchen will smell amazing).
Nic of Baking Bites has also made these cookies, and added a little vanilla to the mix. I think this is a great idea, although since I prefer the cardamom to take center stage, I recommend only using about 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon rather than a full teaspoon as she does. By the way, the cookies practically demand to be dunked in a cup of coffee or crumbled on coffee ice cream…cardamom and coffee are so sublime together that they really ought to be united whenever possible!
Craig Claiborne’s Cardamom Cookies
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
3/4 to 1 teaspoon ground cardamom seeds (use freshly ground if you can, it will make a tremendous difference)
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 large egg
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Sift flour and cream of tartar into a medium bowl.
In a large bowl, cream together butter, cardamom, baking soda and salt. Add sugar and beat until well combined, then beat in egg and vanilla. Stir in flour mixture, 1/3 at a time, until fully incorporated. Pluck tablespoons of dough and roll them into 1 1/2 inch balls between your hands, flatten them slightly in your palms, and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet about 1 inch apart (the cookies will not spread much). If you’re bored, you can score a crosshatch design on them with the back of a thin knife. Bake cookies at 350°F for 10-12 minutes, until light golden brown and look slightly dry around the edges. Cool on baking sheet 10 minutes before transferring to a rack to cool completely.
