This hasn’t been a very productive week for cooking. For one, the weather has taken a rather drastic turn from the unseasonable heat of last week. Autumn came galloping in with a full gamut of chilly temperatures, wind, and a few days of monotonous drizzle. Not very motivating. I’ve also been slightly immersed in a videotape of old X-files episodes that I found and dusted off. Although I don’t watch much tv these days, I used to be pretty into the show back when it was in regular programming. But I seem to have had selective memory about it…I mean, were the episodes always so utterly silly? The one with the dancing skeleton, musical bowl, and cringe-inducing puns made me think that perhaps I was taking myself way too seriously back then to think that the show was something other than a big bag of goofiness.

Anyway, let’s be honest. The biggest reason I haven’t felt like doing much is that I stopped drinking coffee this week…for “health” reasons. Ha ha ha. If you’ve ever done this, you know what I was going through. So, even though I’ve been in somewhat in a haze from the migraine medicine (because caffeine withdrawal ain’t a pretty sight, folks) I did manage to come up for air and make some warm apple cake with a yummy, buttery, and caramelly whisky sauce.

This cake’s recipe came from the Vermont Localvore website, which was recently brought to my attention by a good friend who lives in Burlington. For all you eat-local devotees out there, the site has a nice FAQ about the benefits of eating locally, some sources for locally-produced (Vermont, that is) food, and a collection of user-submitted recipes. The recipes include information about how local the ingredients are, with categories like “totally local” and “local with Marco Polo exceptions”. The Marco Polo caveat allows “salt and spices that sailors could carry in their pockets for 6 months while at sea”. A good idea, if you ask me, since who can enjoy food without salt?

I like this website in particular because it seems to be a bit more inclusive than other local-food agendas I’ve come across; i.e. the importance of eating local in VT doesn’t seem to be totally co-opted by the wealthy and transformed into an expensive status symbol. But that’s another rant for another time.

Meanwhile, back to the cake. It comes together in a snap and bakes up soft, pale, and not too sweet…almost like a less-eggy clafoutis. By itself, it would work as a simple breakfast cake (especially if you use whole wheat pastry flour instead of the white). Although the title is Maple Apple cake, I didn’t detect a very strong maple flavor, possibly because I used a light grade A syrup instead of something darker. It also looked a bit humble by itself, so I wanted to add something to move it from breakfast to dessert status. Since the texture reminded me a little of bread pudding, I decided to coat it with a butterscotch whisky sauce, which is about the best topping for bread pudding I know of. This was just the right thing to transform the humble cake into something a bit prettier that guests would be glad to gobble up. I recommend using a generous hand with the sauce, so no one will have to do any clandestine plate-licking. :)

Maple Apple Cake
Adapted from Real, Old-Time Yankee Maple Cooking by Beatrice Vaughan and Janet Greene

1/2 cup maple syrup - Grade A dark amber (not light) or Grade B
2 medium apples, cored, peeled, and sliced
1 1/4 cups all purpose flour
3/4 tsp. baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. each nutmeg, cloves, and allspice
1/4 cup yogurt or sour cream
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1 large egg, beaten

Preheat oven to 375ºF.
Cook the apple slices in the maple syrup over low heat until the apples are tender; cool. Mix flour with salt, baking soda, baking powder, and spices. Combine yogurt, egg, and butter in a separate bowl. Add the apple mixture to the dry ingredients and stir to mix. Add wet ingredients. Stir lightly to blend, then pour into a greased and floured 8-inch square baking pan. Bake at 375ºF for 15-20 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean.

While the cake cooks, make the Butterscotch Whisky Sauce. Note that this sauce recipe makes enough for 2-3 servings, but it will double easily for more. You can use it on cakes, crêpes, ice cream, fruit (warm sliced peaches would be divine), or whatever strikes your fancy.

Butterscotch Whisky Sauce

3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup whisky or bourbon
2 tablespoons water
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
pinch of sea salt

In a small heavy saucepan, cook sugar over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally with a fork until melted and pale golden. Cook caramel without stirring until deep golden amber. Remove pan from heat and slowly add whisky and water down side of pan. Cook mixture on lowest heat, stirring, until caramel bits are dissolved (this might take a while, but don’t worry, it will happen). Whisk in butter and salt until fully incorporated and remove pan from flame. Let sauce cool slightly before serving (it will thicken), and serve warm.

Baking, Sweet Sauces & Fillings | 2 Comments »

I thought I’d take some time to review a couple of places that opened up recently: Oh Yeah! Ice Cream in Shadyside and Gluuteny, a gluten-free bakery in Squirrel Hill.

Oh Yeah! Ice Cream - 232 Highland Avenue, Shadyside
Hours: 7am - 11pm Monday - Saturday; 9am - 9pm Sunday

Although my friends from Tea Leaves and another Pittsburgh blogger, Pittsburgh Needs Eated, have already reviewed Oh Yeah!, once I heard that they serve Guinness ice cream, well, I just had to see this place for myself.

My impression of Oh Yeah! was very positive. The guys behind the counter (the owner and his friend) were friendly, engaging, and very eager to discuss all topics related to ice cream and their brand-new enterprise. This felt very welcoming, as it seems sadly rare these days to find people who are truly enthusiastic about their work. The basic premise of ordering at Oh Yeah! is not unfamiliar: pick an ice cream, pick a mix-in (or two, or three), and enjoy a cold and creamy concoction of your own design. The result is similar to Dairy Queen’s Blizzard, which I completely loved as a kid. Thanks to the high quality ice cream and unique add-ins, though, this would be a very upscale Blizzard indeed.

The idea of mix-ins might make you think of cold stones, marble slabs, and others of that ilk. However, the possibilities are pushed to the limit here with nearly 100 options, ranging from classics (caramel, peanuts, Kit Kat) to the more inspired (nutmeg, fresh ginger, thyme), to simply bizarre (salmon, seaweed). Yes, you can put salmon in your ice cream. I wonder how many requests they get for that one.

As others have mentioned, the ice cream is sourced from Pittsburgh ice-cream masters Dave and Andy’s as well as Ohio’s Woo City Creamery. I was told that the flavors change daily, and they have about 16 options, including standard ice cream and sorbets as well as Woo Fu, a vegan, soy-based product, and Doggy Peanut Butter, an ice cream that’s suitable to feed both you and your furry companion (Oh Yeah! is very dog-friendly, and the owner’s dog is mascot).

We tried the Guinness ice cream with cocoa and malt, and Chai Tea ice cream blended with fresh ginger. I must say, the Guinness was a revelation: rich, malty, and smooth. Put aside your preconceptions about beer ice cream and just get this. It’s not about the novelty of beer, but rather a surprising depth of flavor. Okay, maybe it is about the beer, but just try it already! The Chai seemed a bit lighter in comparison, and I would have preferred it to be a bit more powerfully spiced, but the addition of fresh ginger perked it up nicely, giving a pleasant and slightly-sharp bite.

One thing that the Oh Yeah! boys are keen on promoting is their ice cream breakfast concept. The store actually opens at 7am, serving espresso drinks and offering to mix granola in your ice cream. I don’t really buy this idea, but it’s definitely a clever way to get people talking about the place. I do think that if they genuinely want to get people in for breakfast, it might help to also carry more conservative breakfast foods so they can do the pitch after getting people in the door. Otherwise, I imagine it would be tricky to create a market for such an indulgence first thing in the morning. Oh Yeah! does carry a few varieties of Enrico’s biscotti, so even if you forgo the 7am ice cream, there’s something available to dip in your espresso. *Update 10/27: They are now carrying muffins, bagels, and a full cereal/granola bar for traditional breakfasting, as well as soups for lunch.

I think Oh Yeah! is a great complement to the always-excellent Dave and Andy’s shop in Oakland, as Pittsburgh is long overdue for more than one place to get delicious ice cream. The Shadyside location should give it a lot of exposure to food-loving foot traffic, as it’s situated near some popular, upscale restaurants (Typhoon, The Red Room, and Casbah) and it’s a very short walk from the Eastside shopping complex, home of Whole Foods. The decor is modern and shiny (we were particularly amused by the restroom door, which is a large two-way mirror), and the mood is organic and Earth-friendly without seeming too crunchy (countertops are recycled from old bowling alleys, and there’s a recycle bin for your plastic ice cream cups). In other words, an excellent fit to the area. I definitely hope they will last through the winter and beyond, as I’m already dreaming of my next concoction…

Gluuteny* - 1923 Murray Avenue, Squirrel Hill
*I’ve just been alerted that the name is spelled GLUUTENY, not GLUTTENY. My apologies!
Hours: Monday CLOSED; Tuesday-Saturday 10:00am - 8:00pm; Sunday 12:00pm - 5:00pm

Gluuteny - dontcha love the name? - is a local gluten- and casein-free bakery opened up just a week or so ago. It’s especially local to me, being just a couple of blocks from my place. Despite the closeness, I didn’t get to visit until yesterday because the handwritten sign said “Sold Out” in thick marker every time I walked by. Who knew, I thought, that there were so many people suffering from celiac disease in Pittsburgh? When I walked in, the friendly girl at the counter explained to me that people had been driving from far and wide to visit the bakery, some even staying at hotels. Although I don’t closely know anyone with celiac, as someone who can’t imagine life without bread and cookies, I would certainly be among those travelling for the promise of being able to enjoy those things again.

Gluuteny uses their own special mix of potato, rice, and tapioca flours for their baked goods. Options range from tender chocolate-chip and cranberry-walnut cookies, to cupcakes, birthday cakes, pound cake, cinnamon-raisin bread, and small loaves of bread. Although they were not yet available, I look forward to trying their muffins and scones.

Since this is my neighborhood, I’m happy to see bakeries of any kind opening up here, and Gluuteny is not just for people with celiac. These are not poor imitations of wheat-based treats - everything we tried (cookies, cupcakes, pound cake) was light, moist, and flavorful, and just as good if not better than its wheat-based counterpart. It’s worth noting that Gluuteny is a small, counter type operation, so there isn’t really anywhere to sit, although since it’s right in the heart of the main business district of Squirrel Hill, one could easily make it a stop on the way to the grocery store, or buy a few cookies to enjoy with your cappuccino at 61C or one of the other nearby coffee shops.

While I probably won’t be going here every day (because, let’s face it, gluten-free doesn’t mean calorie-free), it’s a welcome option for cookies, cupcakes, muffins, and other baked goods, and for me, the added plus of being only a short walk away. People with and without celiac will be very pleasantly surprised - Gluuteny can no doubt allow them to indulge in all the gluten-free gluttony they can manage!

Pittsburgh icons: Tyrannosaurus Rex and Steelers colors of black and gold

Eating in Pittsburgh | No Comments »

I am completely addicted to that Orange Caramel Sauce that I made to spoon atop molten chocolate cakes. After the cakes were gone, there was still quite a bit left over, so I’ve been pouring it on everything, from sliced blood oranges…

to a topping for fixing up some otherwise somewhat dull, morning-rush frozen buckwheat waffles.

In other orange news, I made this lovely orange-hued Butternut Squash Soup with Cider Cream. You can find the recipe here on Epicurious. I substituted 1 medium onion and four chopped shallots for the leeks and used no celery, since there wasn’t time to go out and get any. I really liked the way it turned out, although the reviews claiming it was a sweet soup had me surprised - to me it wasn’t unusually sweet at all, even with the cider cream. In fact, next time I will try an even sweeter and more apple-y variation with a heavier hand on the cider and chopped apples. As is, though, it’s a tasty and nicely savory fall soup that I’ll definitely make again.

Soups & Stews, Sweet Sauces & Fillings | 2 Comments »

It seems that Pittsburgh isn’t quite ready to let go of summer just yet, as the daily temperatures are still topping the 70s and 80s, even now at the beginning of October. Luckily, come sundown, the familiar crispness of fall shows its face, and I feel ready to cozy up to the autumnal troupe of warm desserts, mulled cider, and slow-cooked stews that are lining up to be made and enjoyed. One of my favorites among comfort-food desserts is a good old molten chocolate cake. It’s the perfect vehicle for indulging in rich chocolate bliss, and doesn’t need a special trip to the store…which means I can make it on short notice, anytime there’s a craving in the house (and it doesn’t take much to get a craving around here).

Not too long ago, molten chocolate cakes were the height of trendiness for restaurant desserts. While they might have fallen off the hipness radar, I will gladly continue to make them. It’s a pleasing transformation: the formerly uppity restaurant dessert has settled down and warmed up to a new role - that of a home cook’s reliable stalwart. I’m of the mind that everyone should have a recipe for Molten Chocolate Cakes in their repertoire.

Of course, if everyone has a Molten Chocolate Cake recipe, everyone’s version is just a little bit different. What makes mine special? I like it because it was inspired by chocolate goddesses Alice Medrich and Lori Longbotham, and thus is dense, rich, and very bittersweet. It also serves a smaller number of people than the usual 6 to 8 individual cakes. Therefore, you can serve either four tonight, or two today and two tomorrow. They reheat very well either at 350°F for 10 minutes or in the microwave for about 2 minutes. Like a soufflé, the tops of these cakes will fall shortly after being taken out of the oven, leaving a slightly crisp exterior which hides the rich and gooey center. If you like, you can top them with warm Orange Caramel Sauce, as I did, or a bit of softly whipped cream.

Individual Molten Chocolate Cakes

4 ounces fine-quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped (I used Guittard 64%)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into chunks
2 large eggs
1/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons flour

Preheat oven to 375°F.
Butter and flour four 4-ounce ramekins or custard cups.
In a metal bowl over barely simmering water, melt butter and chocolate, stirring until smooth. Or, put butter and chocolate in a microwave-proof bowl and microwave at 30 second intervals, stirring well each time, until fully melted. Set chocolate mixture aside.

With an electric mixer, beat eggs and sugar until light-colored and thick. Fold chocolate mixture and flour gently into egg mixture, then pour into prepared ramekins. Place ramekins on a baking sheet and bake for 18-20 minutes, or until puffed on top but moist inside when tested with a toothpick.

Orange Caramel Sauce
From Bon Appetit, January 2002

2/3 cup white sugar
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup fresh orange juice (homestyle or pulpy is okay)
1/2 teaspoon grated blood orange peel

Combine sugar and 1/4 cup water in a small saucepan. Stir over medium-low heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat and cook until sugar has reached a deep amber color.

Slowly add orange juice and peel to caramel (mixture will bubble up). Stir over low heat until smooth and any stray bits of caramel dissolve. Use warm or at room temperature.

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