Archive for May, 2008

Over the Rainbow

Posted by the cookworm on May 27th, 2008

Rainbow Chard. Say these two words to anyone who loves leafy greens and you’ll find yourself listening to praise in the sort of excited tones usually reserved for arguably more deserving foods, like ice cream. But if you’ve seen the beautiful chard sauntering around the CSA boxes and farmer’s markets recently, you’d be smitten, too. With its striking red, orange, and yellow-hued stems dipping into deep-green ruffled skirts, this is one good-looking vegetable that deserves to be treated well.

It seems like I just can’t get enough of chard these days, and as I searched for different ways to prepare it, paused on this recipe for a chard-filled yeasted tart. It looked quite appealing, with an inner texture reminiscent of a frittata or Spanish tortilla: a silky mixture of egg and chard, with herbs and cheese to suit your fancy. The presence of a yeasted crust, much lower in fat than a typical tart dough made of buttery pâte brisée, was the real clincher for me. I suppose I could have made a crustless quiche, but I really do love a nice crust…it’s just the richness of pure-butter ones seems a bit much for everyday eating.

I was pretty pleased with the recipe overall, although I tried to make it in a 9-inch tart pan and the filling did overflow a bit - an 11-inch pan is definitely the way to go (if you only have a smaller one, it might work to cut the milk by perhaps half to avoid wateriness). Actually, I might cut the milk anyway, as one friend found it slightly “wet” for his taste. The yeasted crust is pleasantly chewy and rather pizzalike. Do make sure to spray or grease your pan well, though, as it tends to stick a bit otherwise. This tart would make a lovely brunch item or light lunch (with some salad greens on the side if you’re a greens fiend, too). Although it’s good both warm and room temperature, I preferred it warm.

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Pineapple-Basil Granita

Posted by the cookworm on May 21st, 2008

Ok, I know that last post was a bit of a doozy…I just had to get it out of my system, you know? But now I’m here to bring you something more cheerful and upbeat - I mean, I can’t always be cynical, and after all, cookworm turns one this month! I’ll post something more celebratory on the official day, but for now, how about something delicious, cold, and perfect for all sorts of friendly and relaxed occasions…say, Memorial Day barbecues?

Since I don’t have an ice cream maker at my place, I’ve found granitas to be my dessert of choice for when I need a fix of something sweet and frozen. It’s outrageously easy to make a granita, and this one that I whipped up the other day was just as good if not better than any of the sorbets at my favorite ice-cream parlor.

Pineapple and basil might seem like an unusual combination, but they really pair beautifully together (think Thai food). This recipe uses mostly frozen puréed fruit and only a small amount of water/sugar syrup since the pineapple is sweet enough on its own. The texture will be more smooth than icy if you’re diligent at stirring the crystals with a fork, but it’s refreshingly yummy either way.

Pineapple-Basil Granita

18 ounces (about 1/2 large) roughly chopped pineapple (weigh after trimming and cutting, not before)
juice from half a lemon
3-4 large basil leaves, finely chopped
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons sugar

Place pineapple in a food processor and purée until smooth (a few errant chunks are okay). Transfer to a bowl. Place sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Boil for about 5 minutes or until slightly reduced. Stir sugar syrup, lemon juice, and chopped basil into puréed pineapple, then pour into a flat 9″ square or round dish. Freeze, stirring and breaking up large pieces with a fork every 20 minutes or so, until granita reaches the desired consistency (about 1 - 1 1/2 hours). Spoon into serving cups. Makes about 4 servings.

Fiddle Me Timbers

Posted by the cookworm on May 20th, 2008

You know those people who get so completely obsessed with some obscure produce item or ingredient that they just have to have it? They yap about it for weeks to anyone who will listen, then wake up at ungodly hours and elbow to the front of the farmer’s market so they can be the very first to buy it? Aren’t they annoying as all get-out? Well, hello, my name is April, and I have a produce problem. You see, for many years I’ve been reading about a mysterious spring delicacy known as the fiddlehead fern. If you’ve not heard of them, fiddleheads are the furled leaves of certain types of ferns, curled like the head of a violin, and spoken of in hushed, slightly awed tones by those “in the know”. These greens are actually found everywhere in Maine and other parts of New England and Canada, but I’d never seen them in Pittsburgh markets until recently. When I heard they were coming to Farmers @ the Firehouse this Spring, I suddenly became deeply covetous of the wily fronds, and was determined to lay my hands on them.

I knew that the ferns were hard to come by, which meant that I would have to position myself at the market before opening time. This translates to before 9:00am on a Saturday morning - surprisingly not on the list of favorite things to do on my day off. Still, I went the week before last, and managed to arrive about 10 minutes before 9. Yes! There was even time to grab a desperately-needed cup of coffee before the vendors were allowed to start selling. I slipped into La Prima, got a to-go cup, and hurried back to the stalls. Then, if you were near, you might have heard me mutter: “What? They’re sold out already?! Good grief.” Then, frantically: “Ok, but will you have them next week?” Of course, the shame that they’d slipped through my fingers made me want them even more…and I vowed to not let them escape again.

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Spring Simplicity

Posted by the cookworm on May 8th, 2008

I’m so glad it’s finally Spring…eating is starting to feel much more effortless now. No recipe is needed for a spring salad like this one, of baby arugula, lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and some pecorino cheese flavored with saffron and black pepper. The greens are at their most tender and delicious, so only a little enhancement is needed. Although I do love my winter stews, it’s such a lovely, easy feeling to just let the food speak for itself. And did you know a local farmer’s market starts on Saturday? You better believe I’ll be there!

Birthday Macarons

Posted by the cookworm on May 6th, 2008

It was my birthday this past weekend, and in lieu of a cake, I decided to make some macarons. Little did I know that this venture would ruin me forever in unexpected ways. You might have heard me whinge a few times about my vague disgust for frosting and its slithery, tooth-aching texture. Well, I guess the day of regret was bound to come sooner or later…because as of last weekend, I’m definitely eating those words.

The devilry behind all this arrived in a little batch of something called Espresso-Caramel Frosting. It was a recipe from Tish Boyle’s The Cake Book, and one that I’d had bookmarked for a while now. Let me just cut to the chase and tell you right now: this frosting is Dangerous, with a capital D, in a way I had no idea frosting could be. Perilous in the “I need to get it out of the house immediately before I eat the entire bowl right this second” kind of way. And even though there are a few choice things (hello there romesco sauce) that drive me to superlatives, I’m not a particularly excitable sort of person, if you know what I mean. My socks aren’t easily knocked off.

And yet…just imagine the smooth flavor of brown-sugar caramel embraced by a shot of great espresso and delivered in the smoothest, creamiest, and lightest-tasting vehicle ever. A phenomenon, if you will, that has caused me to leave behind my frosting-hating self forever…at least as long as this stuff is in the room. If you have even the remotest interest in caramel or coffee, you have got to make this stuff as soon as possible. Just don’t say I didn’t warn you.

The original recipe makes a pretty vast quantity - somewhere over 5 cups, and suited for a full-size cake - but I was able to easily divide everything by 4, which makes enough to fill two batches of cardamom-scented macarons, adapted from David Lebovitz’s great recipe. The result was something like a caramelly Arabic coffee in macaron form. Honestly, who needs birthday cake, anyway?

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